Chicken Divan - A Classic Recreated

French technique and cuisine is de rigeur in culinary school. All of your knife cuts have French names; many cooking methods are French. And there are only two answers that are acceptable in the kitchen of a French chef: Oui, Chef; and Non, Chef! 

When it comes to technique, culinary students are never in doubt: either they embrace it or they simply endure it until they get out of school.

I've encountered similar feelings toward French cuisine when cooking for clients or heading up restaurant kitchens. And most of the objections I hear are centered on the richness of the food, particularly the sauces. They are perceived to be made from mounds of butter and buckets of cream.

I set out to disprove that a couple of months ago when I cooked Chicken in Vinegar Sauce, adapting a recipe from the famous French chef, Jacques Pepin. There wasn't a hint of butter or a drop of cream. Rather we used the piquant flavor of red wine vinegar tamed by some other ingredients to create a luxurious vegetable sauce.

And once again, this week, to those who turn up their noses at French food, I say, "Au contrere!"

Chicken Divan my way uses only a couple of tablespoons of butter and a scant quarter cup of cream. The primary ingredient in this sauce is chicken stock. I used the butter with flour to create a roux to thicken the sauce and the cream gave the sauce some body.

There is one other technique in this recipe I'd like to call to your attention and that is blanching and shocking vegetables in order to set the color. In this recipe I use broccoli with longer stems than I might use in other recipes. I cooked the florets in boiling salted water just until they were tender and then "shocked" them in ice water to stop the cooking and set the brilliant green color.

I highly recommend this for two reasons: The first I already gave you and that is that the color is important as a part of the presentation of the dish. That's because we eat with our eyes first. The second is that the vegetable is not overcooked, soggy or limp. Rather it is crisp and retains that vegetal flavor that we look for in perfectly cooked broccoli.

Here's the video, followed by the recipe:

Chicken Divan

1 medium bunch broccoli
1 14 0z can chicken broth (low sodium)
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided
3 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
dash white pepper
1/4 cup cream
1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, shredded
1 1/2 Tbsp dry white wine
4 large chicken breast halves, boneless and skinless

Cut broccoli into long florets with stems. Boil briefly in lots of salted water just until crisp and tender. Drain, then refresh in ice water to set the color. Drain again and pat dry.

In a small saucepan, boil chicken broth until reduced by half to about 1 cup.

In a medium skillet saute chicken breasts in a 2 Tbsp butter until each side is nicely browned. Remove chicken and add remaining butter and blend with flour to make a roux. Add salt and white pepper. Add reduced chicken broth and cook, stirring until mixture thickens and bubbles. Stir in the cream, the Parmesan cheese and wine. Remove from heat.

Serve chicken breasts, placing broccoli on top and pour sauce over the meat and vegetables.

Italian Dessert/French Sauce - What's the diff?

When I teach dessert sauces in the Kitchen Guy Cooking School, one of the first ones that I teach is Sabayon, a very simple sauce made with egg yolks, sugar and Madeira. It comes together fairly quickly but requires a good amount of elbow grease, as you have to whisk the ingredients vigorously in order to at least double, if not triple, the volume.

We then drizzle it over fresh berries and every student to a person is amazed at what this one simple sauce can do.

The Italian version differs in that Marsala is used instead of Madeira. And to make semifreddo, (a name, by the way, that mystifies me since it means "half frozen") we add cream whipped to stiff peaks, folded into the egg mixture which is now called, "Zabaglione."

We upped the flavor profile, as well as the Italian influence, by adding crushed Amaretto cookies to the bottom of the ramekins and as a top sprinkling, so that when you unmold the dessert, you've got the crushed cookies on the way in and the way out.

While the extra steps to make semifreddo do take time, I promise you this dessert is well worth the effort. It's pretty good before you freeze it, too, but I highly recommend going through all of the motions. Watch the video and you'll see how easy it is to make. The recipe is below the video window.

Zabaglione Semifreddo

4 large egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup Marsala wine

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup crushed Amaretto cookies, plus whole cookies for garnish

Fill a large saucepan with about 2 inches of water; bring to a boil over medium high heat. As soon as the water boils, reduce the heat to low or medium low to maintain gentle bubbles at the edges.

Whisk together egg yolks and sugar in a medium heatproof bowl. Set the bowl over the saucepan of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. use an electric hand-held mixer or a whisk to beat the mixture vigorously for 30 seconds to a minute. Then drizzle in the Marsala wine as you continue to beat. After the Marsala has been incorporated, beat for 10 to 15 minutes until the mixture has at least doubled in volume and transformed into a dense foamy cream.

Remove the bowl from thereat and beat for another minute or two until the mixture has cooled slightly.

Place the heavy cream in the bowl of stand mixer and beat on high until firm peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled zabaglione mixture.

Lightly butter or spray six 8-ounce ramekins or custard cups. Sprinkle a tablespoon of the crushed cookies into the bottom of each. Divide the zabaglione among the ramekins and sprinkle the tops with additional cookie crumbs. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for at least 6 hours until completely solid.

To serve, remove from the freezer and let stand for several minutes. Dip the  ramekins in hot water and run a paring knife around the edges. Unmold onto dessert plates by inverting the ramekin on the plate, holding the plate and ramekin firmly and give a firm shake until you hear the semifreddo release onto the plate.

Garnish with whole Amaretto cookies.